CAMP

June 7, 2019 Stefano Casarola

At the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, has been set up the exhibition CAMP: notes on fashion (from 9 May to 8 September). I probably won't have the chance to see it, but it has given me the possibility to know the meaning of the word CAMP. The term was coined by the writer Susan Sontag in 1964 and refers to the love for what is artificial, unnatural, for an exaggerated taste. This taste for exasperation has always been linked to an exercise in creativity, but today it is much more spontaneous and goes beyond the world of fashion. Which, however, remains its main expression, able to speak contradictory or different languages through a single object.

For more info also see: https://www.metmuseum.org

BOLDINI - FERRARA

May 10, 2019 Stefano Casarola

Some of the works fo the Italian painter Giovanni Boldini, will be displayed at Palazzo Dei Diamanti, in Ferrara, until 2 June 2019. The exhibition explores in particular the relationship between the artist and the world of fashion. In fact, Boldini, who moved to Paris in 1872, developed a very personal style in which fashion plays a fundamental role. Thanks to his skill in drawing and his careful research for color, he managed to exalt both the silhouettes of the models and the lines of their clothes, immortalizing this way the elegance and hedonism of the Belle Epoque.

#fINAESTAMPA

April 26, 2019 Stefano Casarola

If you are deciding for a short trip to Madrid, it might be interesting to visit the exhibition dedicated to fashion illustration at the ABC Museum. Twentytwo artists works are shown. Each of these artists, thanks to a personal language and technique, has been able to bring on paper fashion styles and trends. Till 19 May 2019.

Photos from www.museo.abc.es

BANKSY IN MILAN

December 28, 2018 Stefano Casarola

Banksy is a British artist whose identity is still hidden. He is considered one of the most important exponents of contemporary street art. His works are usually characterized by a satirical background and deal with universal topics such as politics, culture and ethics. His visual protest involves an heterogeneous audience and makes it one of the most loved artists by the younger generation. The MUDEC exhibition in Milan is the first Banksy monographic exhibition in Italy, and it is not authorized by the artist, like all those dedicated to him before, as Banksy continues to defend his anonymity and his independence from the system.

EPOCA FIORUCCI

November 30, 2018 Stefano Casarola

A year after the British Janie and Stephen Schaffer decided to give new life to the brand, the International Gallery of Modern Art of Ca 'Pesaro in Venice celebrates with an exhibition the designer Elio Fiorucci, defined by many as "the champion of democratic fashion”. The title of the retrospective, which illustrates the creative genius of the artist who died in Milan in 2015 at the age of 80, is "Epoca Fiorucci", and it will be held until 6 January 2019. Curated by Gabriella Belli and Aldo Colonetti with Elisabetta Barisoni and the collaboration of Floria Fiorucci, the exhibition focuses on his extraordinary biography together with his creations. Clothes and accessories, but also posters, documents and the most varied objects describe the "Fiorucci philosophy" for which a shop is not just a store, but is "a relationship between feelings, thoughts, languages and different souls".

Son of a shoes retailer, Fiorucci demonstrated a unique personality in the field of fashion. At the end of the sixties, with the opening of his shop in Galleria Passarella, designed by the sculptor Amalia Del Ponte, he brought to Milan the transgressive spirit of the Swinging London. What we could define as the first concept store, became a reference point for young people looking for inspiration and cultural contaminations. And the same happened in 1976 with the store in New York, where it was possible to meet different stars like Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Madonna. Fiorucci was probably the first to create a perfect mix of fashion, art, music and architecture, a today normal melting pot but so revolutionary at the time.

Capri VS Saint tropez

July 27, 2018 Stefano Casarola

Sandals were probably the first type of shoes worn by man. Sandals are made of layers of leather sewn together and straps in leather or other materials. They were worn by the Egyptians, the Persians, the Greek and by the Romans, and were initially used to protect people’s feet from the roughness of the ground. Sandals have evolved in shape and ornaments and have become an essential element of a woman wardrobe. This development in style was especially due to the creativity of Italian and French craftsman who created new designs over the years. I’m referring to the CAPRI and the TROPEZIENNES styles.

CAPRI SANDALS

When the Roman emperor Tiberius choose the island of Capri to spend the last days of his life, he arrived wearing a pair of sandals with laces of leather wrapped around his ankle. That style of sandals, originally worn by the emperor Tiberius, is essentially still worn today and continues to be produced in Capri, altough now as been embellished with stones and new materials, and it is a symbol of the italian craftsmanship. Many stars of the cinema and members of the jet set have chosen a pair of Capri sandals, from Sophia Loren to Jackie Kennedy.

The favourite sandals by Jackie Kennedy. From canfora.com

TROPEZIENNES SANDALS

The story of Tropeziennes sandals begins in 1927, in Saint Tropez, where Domenique Rondini opened his shop and created his first model of sandals. His idea for the sandals was probably inspired by a specific need of a client who wanted to wear a very resistant pair of shoes for walking on the sand, similar to those worn by romans gladiators. In 1933, always in Saint Tropez, also Jacques Keklikian opened a shoes shop specialized in handmade sandals. Trasformed in K. Jacques, this brand, become famous through testimonials like Brigitte Bardot and Pablo Picasso, is today distributed in the best shops of the world.

K-Jacques Buffon model. From www.kjacques.fr

Rondini sandals. From Pinterest. www.rondini.fr

In Italy or in France it’s the same way of buying your sandals: you enter in a shop, you meet the craftman who takes your footprint, you choose togheter with him the style, the materials and the colours for your sandals. The time of a dive in the blue mediterranea sea and your sandals are ready to be worn.

Lanapo: 5 Terre sandals

June 29, 2018 Stefano Casarola

The Cinque Terre is part of the Ligurian coast (Riviera spezzina) located in the province of La Spezia between Punta Mesco and Punta di Montenero, where there are five small villages here listed from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore. Since 1997 they are part of the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Each of these fishing villages is characterized by colorful houses, nice shops, and restaurants where to taste seafood specialties and the famous Ligurian condiment: pesto. Vineyards built on terraces created up on the hill surrounding the villages, produce amazing and autocthonous wines. The best way to visit them is to use the hiking paths that stretch along the coast, connecting the Cinque Terre one another and offering splendid views of the sea.

Monterosso al Mare is the largest village of the Cinque Terre. Consisting of two districts, the old village and Fegina, the more touristy part.

Vernazza is considered by many to be the most charming of the Cinque Terre and was documented for the first time in 1080.

Corniglia is the only village of the Cinque Terre not in contact with the sea, rising on top of a rock promontory. Its low and wide houses are more similar to those of the hinterland than to the typical coastal houses.

Manarola was founded during the XII century and is rich in typical tower houses of Genovese style.

We have the first news of Riomaggiore only in 1251, when the inhabitants of the district of Carpena, spread coast, swore faith to the Republic of Genova. Between 1200 and 1300 the inhabitants of these settlements decided to go down towards the sea a… — We have the first news of Riomaggiore only in 1251, when the inhabitants of the district of Carpena, spread coast, swore faith to the Republic of Genova. Between 1200 and 1300 the inhabitants of these settlements decided to go down towards the sea and give llife to the village.which holds a Trittico XV century and a wooden statue of 1300 representing the Madonna (Maria). Also important is the Castello (castle) which dominates the historical centre.

I spent wonderful days during my holidays in Cinque Terre, amazing views, fantastic food and wines, good walks, deep blue sea and nice people. In Monterosso al Mare, there is a cozy shop selling artisanal shoes: LANAPO, the 5 Terre sandals. Creating according to the best tradition of craftmanship and focused on quality the 5 terre sandals are the result of inspiration coming from this enchanting corner of Italy.

YUJIA HU

May 25, 2018 Stefano Casarola

Yujia Hu is a 30 years old guy, born in China and Italian by adoption. He is the chef of his family's restaurant Sakana Sushi where every day he prepares the most famous Japanese dish. His interests come above all from the American culture, basket and rap music. He has become famous when he has started creating sneakers using rice and uncooked fish. He publishes photos of his little creations of onigiri, on is his Instagram profile @theonigiriart: from Airjordan 1 to Balenciaga Triple S, to faces of famous basket players. An amazing mix of food and street culture.

André Perugia and his mask shoes

February 10, 2018 Stefano Casarola

André Perugia was born in 1893 and became one of the most famous shoemakers in the twenties and thirties, placing himself as a top designer of the 20th century. In Nice, since an early age he worked in his father’s shop, a capable Italian shoemaker. When he was sixteen years old he convinced the owner of a luxurious hotel of the town to rent him a small window shop inside the hotel, where he could show his creations. By this way he would have been able to capture the attention of the good society of Paris coming to Nizza for summer holidays. As he had predicted, wealthy women appreciated his unique shoes. But he was also noticed by the famous couturier Paul Poiret who offered him the possibility to present his collections in his atelier, giving André the chance to get in contact with the more aristocratic and rich clients of Paris. In 1921 he opened his first boutique in the Faubourg St. Honoré, the most elegant area of Paris. It was thanks to his passion for the avant-garde art together with experience in an aircraft factory during the First World War that Perugia realized that "a pair of shoes must be perfect as an equation and adjusted down to the last millimeter, like a piece of engine". He was an engineer of shoes who payed attention to technical details, an innovator on all fronts: style, construction technology, and materials.

Here there is the Mask Sandal by Perugia, and others shoes which have been probably inspired by Perugia's work. They make me think at Carnival time and at an accessorie that could be useful to create an elegant and exclusive outfit for a Carnival party.

By André Perugia. From thehistorialist.com.

Nicholas Kirkwood, 2009. From thehistorialist.com

Louboutin, 1995 and Roger Vivier, 1980. From thehistorialist.com

OFF WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH X NIKE LAB

December 15, 2017 Stefano Casarola

Virgil Abloh is the founder and creative director of Off White: a streetwear brand loved by celebtiries and music icons. For this collaboration, that takes the name of “The Ten”, Virgil Abloh has worked on 10 iconic models characterizing not only the history of Nike, but also that of the controlled brands, Converse and Jordan. The capsule is divided into two categories of style: Revealing and Ghosting. The first group collects a series of models created to be accessible (Air Jordan, Nike Air Max 90, Nike Air Presto, Nike Air VaporMax and Nike Blazer Mid). Accessible means that the design presents small applications, cuts and writings, letting you see or understand the process of construction. The second group is the most futuristic version of the collection (Converse Chuck Taylor, Nike Zoom Fly SP, Nike Air Force One 1 Low, Nike React Hyperdunk 2017 and Nike Air Max 97) and introduces the use of transparent rubber, bringing out what is normally hidden and explaining by printed words what couldn't be shown.

"REVEALING"

"GHOSTING"

Converse Chuck Taylor All Star. From waitfashion.com

Nike React Hyperdunk. From waitfashion.com

Nike Zoom Vaporfly. From sneakernarcos.com.

Nike Air Forse 1 Low. From sneakernarcos.com.

Virgil Abloh started his career in the fashion system after meeting Kanye West. Abloh after working for the American rap singer as the manager of the merchandising, has become his design director, a title he still holds. Meanwhile he found the time to create his own brand, Off White, which as a become a case study in the fashion industry, perfectly reflecting the right mix between high-fashion and streetwear.

Paul Andrew for Ferragamo

December 8, 2017 Stefano Casarola

In September 2016, the designer Paul Andrew was named Women's Footwear Designer Director of Salvatore Ferragamo. Almost one year after he has been named Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo's line woman. Eraldo Poletto, ceo at the Group, said: "Paul has a dynamic vision of the Ferragamo woman and has successfully demonstrated it in footwear in the last year. It has the sensitivity to read the creative codes and brand values and has the ability to reprocess and reaffirm them with contemporaneity and energy".
We are now waiting for her debut in February 2018 with the Fall Winter Woman 2018-19.
The designer's first success comes in 2013, winner of Who is on Next,
British-born, 38, Paul Andrew has worked in Alexander McQueen's studios, Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein. In 2013 he launched his own brand name, and first success came becoming the accessories Designer of the Year winning at that year's edition of "Who is on Next".

James Ferragamo, director of men’s and women’s shoes and grandson of Salvatore Ferragamo, said: “Paul is an amazing talent. When we first met, it was more about his vision for the company than the shoes themselves. He came up with the ‘high tech meets high craft’ concept. He is about creating shoes that have that legacy. He dresses women from the shoes up. Ferragamo started out as a shoe company, after all. Paul is also all about embracing all the small details that make a shoe timeless, and never compromises on fit and comfort. That is so Ferragamo.”

Paola Gerbase

November 29, 2017 Stefano Casarola

Paula Gerbase, a London-based designer, is the artistic director of the luxury English footwear brand John Lobb, owned by the Hermès Group. The position sees her responsible for all collections, ready-to-wear, bespoke and accessories, as well as the creative development of the brand. When she started her work at the footwear label for the Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, John Lobb’s CEO Renaud Paul-Dauphin said: “We wish to bring a modern vision to the brand, whilst respecting its intrinsic values of craftsmanship.” Gerbase, studied at Central Saint Martins, she trained in couture tailoring at the atelier of Hardy Amies, and then worked for five years as Head Designer of Savile Row tailor Kilgour. During these years in Savile Row she immersed herself in a world of rigorous craft and absolute attention to detail. Her brand "1205" was launched in 2010. It focuses on quality of cut, fabric and proportion. Her menswear and womenswear collections have immediately gained attention from the most prestigious stores in Japan, including United Arrows, Isetan, Beams and Dover Street Market, followed by worldwide stockists such as Browns, 10 Corso Como and Net a Porter.

Founded in 1866, John Lobb specialises in handmade shoes and boots for men and was acquired in 1976 by the Hermès Group. John Lobb himself was born in 1829 in Cornwall, but made his way to London as a young man as an apprentice bootmaker. He set up his first shop on Regent Street in 1866. He rapidly established itself as the premier boot and shoemaker of the day, providing a bespoke service to the aristocracy, as well as the political and business elite. In 1902 the company opened its first store in Paris, which echoed its London success and attracted a broad array of international clients. The company continues to maintain its bespoke shoe-making, also retaining bespoke principles in the manufacture of its ready-to-wear collection with its 190-step manufacturing process for each pair of shoes. The collection, which includes all the iconic classics, such as the William 'monk' shoe and the Lopez loafer, as well new models reflecting contemporary lifestyles, always retains the timeless traditions of John Lobb: exceptional quality, fine craftsmanship, comfort, durability and elegance.

William "monk" model. From johnlobb.com. Man collection.

Lopez model. From johnlobb.com. Man collection.

Hawthorn model. From johnlobb.com. Women collection.

Hawkes model. From johnlobb.com. Women collection.

Borg vs McEnroe

November 17, 2017 Stefano Casarola

Last week I went to the cinema and saw the film “Borg McEnroe” of Janus Metz Pedersen. It focuses on the rivalry between the two tennis champions Borg and McEnroe. A rivalry then turned into a real friendship between two players not so different as it would appear. I love this sport and I really enjoyed the movie.

Inevitably my attention has also been captured by some elements directly linked to my job.
First I noticed that in the 80's the two champions were dressed with Italian brands: Fila and Diadora for Borg, Sergio Tacchini for McEnroe. These brands still exist today. They create quality products and have been able to maintain their market role despite the supremacy in the sportswear world of names such as Nike and Adidas. And they also wink at vintage style. Fila and Diadora in particular dedicate part of their collections to heritage (you can still buy Borg’s polo).

Then what about the headband? During Fall/Winter 2017-18 catwalks, Gucci models came out wearing headbands with a clear reference to the tennis world. So the long pleated skirts worn with maxi cardigan bring us to the female protagonists of the 30's tennis.

From my wardrobe: a bit of Borg and a bit of McEnroe.

Today Bjorn Borg has his own fashion brand selling underwear, sportswear, swimwear, shoes and bags. Last 31st of August he presented his limited "Signature Collection" at The Royal Tennis Hall in Stockholm, Sweden. Following the ‘see now, buy now’ concept, all the pieces showed were available immediately after appearing on the runway and are still available on the website: bjonrborg.com. The Signature Collection is strongly linked to the tennis and style icon Björn Borg himself, with his long hair and headband, his short tennis shorts, and stylish tight track jacket. A “vintage” collection with retro details but modern fit.

KVADRAT X ADIDAS

November 3, 2017 Stefano Casarola

Adidas Originals and Kvadrat, one of Europe’s leading textile manufacturers, have presented a new collaboration. They have created a really special edition of the iconic Stan Smith sneakers. The idea was born in Denmark and has been inspired by Copenhagen, by the design and the mix of Japanese and modern aesthetic values which characterized the city. Danish artisans of Kvadrat, appreciated for their creativity and the quality of their production, have applied their know-how to three new Stan Smiths, using the fabric “Square” by Danish designer Vibeke Rohland.

The total white Stan Smith sneakers, homage to the homonymous American tennis champion, since they were launched in the 70’s they have never stopped to fascinate. This because of their simple look, characterized by the absence of the classic three Adidas strips, and for their versatility that makes them suitable for everyday use or, with a bit of irony, for even more formal occasions.

All the photos from: adidas.com and kvadrat.com

Mert and Marcus by Taschen

October 27, 2017 Stefano Casarola

Taschen presents Mert Alas Marcus Piggott, an XXL-sized edition book featuring 300 pictures signed by the authors, from the hyper-glamorous, hyper-glossy repertoire of this creative partnership that has defined and redefined standards for fashion. Mert Alas, born in Turkey, and Marcus Piggott, born in Wales, met in 1994, at a party in England. They rapidly discovered that had plenty in common, not least a love for fashion. Three years later, the duo now known as Mert and Marcus, moved into a loft in East London, converted it into a studio, and had their first collaborative photographic work published in Dazed & Confused.

These days, Mert and Marcus have worked with renowned brands as Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Miu Miu, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Lancôme, and public figures including Lady Gaga, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen, Björk, Angelina Jolie, and Rihanna. Their photos are renowned particularly for their use of digitized augmentation of images, and for a fascination for strong, sexually charged, confident female subjects.

All the photos of the book from: www.taschen.com

GABS STORE IN MILAN

October 20, 2017 Stefano Casarola

On September 19, the two monobrand stores – Gabs and Campomaggi – property of Campomaggi & Caterina Lucchi SPA company, have been inaugurated in Milan. The shopping space, consisting in two adjoining stores for a total of 100 sqm., is located at 1 Corso Como. For the Gabs brand, this is the first store in Milan, while for Campomaggi it is the second one, after the opening in Via della Spiga in 2016. Both two different concepts have been created by architect Pier Nicola Currà from Cesena.

Gabs was founded in 2000 by designer Franco Gabbrielli in Florence. The family tradition and experience within the leather goods industry dates back to the 70s. After many years, learning and developing bags in the traditional way, Franco decides to take on a challenge of a new major project: to work on “a new concept of bag” where the bag can be transformed, according to the consumer needs. The idea becomes a sensation from the very start, and the clients, attracted by the materials, colours, shapes and functionality, appreciate the new proposal with great enthusiasm.

Today Gabs is an unconventional brand synonym with colour, transformation and innovation. It proposes bags for all day long, lots of different models for all women's need. Each bag comes with an extra shoulder belt, and an extra nylon shopping bag.

All photos from gabs.it

BALENCIAGA "The master of us all"

October 13, 2017 Stefano Casarola

The spanish couturier Cristòbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastian, Spain, in 1919, when he was 24 years old. In 1937, he moved to Paris where he operated the most exclusive and expensive atelier. To celebrate 100 years of the Maison, the Victoria and Albert Museum of London runs a retrospective exhibition of one of the most avant gard designers (till 18 February 2018). As Balenciaga said: “A couturier must be an architect for the design, a sculptor for the shape, a painter for the colour, a musician for the harmony and a philosopher for the temperance”. The exhibit includes more than 100 garments among which his iconic baby doll dress, envelope dress and cocoon coat, 20 hats, different sketches, photos and fabric samples.

Balenciaga is famous for his innovative silhouettes and dresses construction. He was revered by his contemporaries including Coco Chanel and Christian Dior who called him "the master of us all", and his style has inspired some of the world's most well know designers such as Givenchy, Courrege and modern day designers like Gareth Pugh and Simone Rocha. Today the new creative director of the Maison (which has become one of the luxury branches of François Pinault’s Kering group) is Demna Gvasalia.

Balenciaga said: “A couturier must be an architect for the design, a sculptor for the shape, a painter for the colour, a musician for the harmony and a philosopher for temperance”.

Google and Levi's connected clothing

May 19, 2017 Stefano Casarola

With the Commuter Trucker Jacket Levi’s and Google have integrated technology into fashion. The Jacket has been specifically studied for the urban cyclist. He can now chek his mobile, controlling incoming calls and music, simply touching the left sleeve of his jacket while always remaining aware.

From inventing the first pair of riveted blue jeans in 1873 to creating the Commuter Jacket , Levi’s has always been thinking forward. Together with Google ATAP they have developped the Jacquard technology: special conductive yarns which give interactive and digital functions to a textile product. The jacket has a cuff with touch-enabled fabric. A tag wirelessly connects the conductive yarns in the jacket’s cuff to your mobile device. You can remove the tag, and the entire garment is washable and durable.

The choice of a jacket as the format for the first Jacquard product was also rigorously thought-through. A garment from your wardrobe that you wear frequently, a lifestyle item which is worn almost everyday.

Ian Berry - A Denim World

May 5, 2017 Stefano Casarola

When you look at Ian Berry’s works, online, in a print or even up close, you think you are in front of blue toned photographs or indigo coloured oil paintings. Even at touching distance, it’s difficult to realise that you are looking at many layers and shades of denim jeans. Ian Berry is a young british artist who uses one of the most common item of clothing that unites many around the globe. Denim is his medium for seeing the world. It is an urban fabric for capturing everyday urban life.

Ian Berry while working on Giorgio Armani portrait. From ianberry.org.

Giorgio Armani portrait. From ianberry.org.

Ayrton Senna portrait. From ianberry.org.

Ian Berry while working on Ayrton Senna portrait. From ianberry.org.

He creates urban scenes and has realized commissioned portraits, from Giorgio Armani to Ayrton Senna, to top model Gisele. Only when very close to the works, you become aware of the depth and texture and see how each small piece of denim has been considered and crafted out of jeans with washes, and fades, which help create that painterly tone. Inspiration came noticing a pile of old jeans and noticing the contrasting shades of blue. Some scissors and glue later, Ian has become one of the most talked young artist. You can discover more at: ianberry.org.

Modern Communication. From ianberry.org.

Flamingos surprise

April 21, 2017 Stefano Casarola

The town of Milan hides lots of surprise. Just behind the traffic and caos of Corso Venezia, there is a peaceful area full of liberty buildings which deserves a walk. And in Via Cappuccini 3, through the gates of Villa Invernizzi, you can discover some unexpected flamingos wandering around the garden of the villa and the swimming pool specially built for them. They were imported from Africa and Chile by the owner of the Villa, Romeo Invernizzi, founder of the homonymous dairy firm. These flamingos have been living this place since 1970, they have perfectly adapted and don't wish to fly away.